The goal of this custom is a 90’s style Jim Lee Jubilee with a bit of the animated series Jubilee just to really hit home the 90’s vibe!
The bigger goal and what I want to do different than a lot of the other jubilee customs iv seen is, I want a FUN Jubilee that captures the essence of the Jubilee I like.
Check out the completed figure here!
Here. We. GO!
So the base for this custom is the Marvel Legends Hobgoblin series Ultimate Spider Woman with some casts from the Marvel Legends Jubilee figure.
The casts for the head and jacket came from Clay Orr.
So to start I use a hairdryer to heat up the figure so I can pop it apart at the joints. This is going to make working with the figure much easier.
1: Arms first! Im going to sand each joint at the area I marked in red. You have to do this to prevent the joints from rubbing up against one another because if they rub after you paint the figure it will rub the paint off. This is called “Paint Rub” and its super important to avoid if you want your final figure to be pose-able without damaging the paint job.
2: Here are the arms after sanding. Along with the joints I also got rid of any other imperfections on the figure like mold lines. I then separated the joints from the hands to make them easier to sand and because im also going to be casting them to make some more alternative hands. I also shaved the ends peg of the joints so that the hands can be easily swapped.
On to our first sculpt!
3: Going to start with the gloves. First I sculpt the little straps for the gloves, you will find this part familiar if you read the Cyclops tutorial! For sculpting I like Aves Apoxy Sculpt which I use for almost all my sculpting but I will be using a different epoxy for this custom but I will get to that later!
4: Once the straps are dry I sculpt the rectangle bits. For the round parts I roll out some epoxy into a cylinder the diameter I want, let it dry, cut it so I have a little circle, glue it onto the strap then drill the center hole. This is a really easy way to get crisp edges.
1: Nothing to fancy here. I just sculpt the rest of the gloves and they are all done.
2: So now im going to make my alternate hands. I dont really like using whole figures for just one piece so I made a mold from the base figures hands to use as a base for my alternative hands. Im going to make a peace sign hand and a left “open” hand.
The clay used here is a sulfur free clay that wont react with the Smooth On casting supplies I use.
3: Heres the results of the first cast after cleaning. This will be my peace sign hands.
4: Next I drill a little hole in the side that I will put a tooth pick through to attach the wrist joint to hand so it can move. This is a bit of a pain to do but you end up with a really great joint that can hold a pose.
1: And the finished peace sign. Nothing fancy here I just sculpt over top the cast piece and then sand everything smooth. I dont sand this stuff nearly as much as I use to as I find my paint primer and varnishes tend to smooth things out a lot.
2: Heres the other hand after the cast. I used my dremel to remove most of the fingers to turn the fist into more of an open hand to give me a base to sculpt on.
3: So im trying to match the hand on the left here. So next I attach little pieces of wire that will act as a support structure for the fingers.
4: Here are the fingers sculpted. I ending up using Procreate two part epoxy for this as I was having trouble getting the aves to work. Procreate works a lot like green stuff and supports itself much better than aves so it worked well here.
Here are the finished hands! I sculpted a bit of a palm onto the open hand and thinned it a little to match the other hand. I was really happy how this hand turned out but I was really really really pumped about the peace sign hand.
1: Next up are the boots. Again I sand the marked areas to prevent paint rub.
2: After sanding im going to tackle the boots. Im going to try to do something iv never done before but thought about a lot. I want to add toe articulation to a non articulated foot. I love toe articulation when im posing but new Marvel Legends dont have it.
3: So heres how I did it. Two cuts as I marked here, one cuts the foot in half the other cuts a notch out of the middle. I ended up not giving myself enough room on the edges so I ended up having to cut a bit more off the sides to make it work. You can see that in the next picture.
4: Here are the final parts. I marked the little extra bit I had to cut off. The notch is glued back onto the foot and everything is sanded.
1: I thought this next part was going to be a pain but it really wasn’t to bad. I basically just drilled a hole on each side of the outer foot till I had a little mark on the inner foot. Then I just drilled half way from each little mark on the inner foot till they connected. Then I slid a paperclip through and viola!
The joint worked very well and held a pose but because I messed up the first cut there was a bit of a gap on the ends that I really didnt like.
2: So I used some aves to make the edges match up a bit more and to fill in the joint hole.
3: Finished feet. I will 100% be doing this again for figures I cant find articulated Toybiz feet for. It wasnt to hard to do and the results are great.
4: I then sculpt the upper part of the boot and the boots are done. Showing off a bit of the articulation here!
1: Legs are next. I sand them down to remove mold lines and sand the joints to prevent paint rub. I also trim down the peg holes so I can sculpt over them.
2: The finished legs. I sculpt over the joint holes making them smooth and then I sculpt the rolled jean shorts.
3: Torso next. First I sand the joints of the arms and neck to prevent paint rub. I then take my dremel and remove as much as I can from the upper part of the leg socket. This is a really bad spot for causing paint rub that I always miss.
I then use my dremel to remove a large portion of the bust and sand them smooth.
4: I then sculpt the high waist 90’s jeans. I sculpted the belt loop and buckle after the lower jeans and belt had dried.
1: I continue by sculpting the inner jacket and buckles. I actually revisit this sculpt later on and add more material to the bust to make it look less like its just painted on.
2: Up next is the jacket. I was planning to just use this cast of the Marvel Legends Jubilee but use heat to reshape it just like I did with my thor custom. Unfortunately it didn’t work as I couldnt get the jacket to hold its shape as it would slowly over 2-3 hours go back into its starting shape.
So I decided I would just use the upper part of the jacket and sculpt a lower jacket. Iv never done anything like that before so I was excited to try.
3: I cut the lower part of the jacket off then glue the upper part of the jacket onto the torso. I reattach the legs so I know they will work with the jacket sculpt.
The biggest problem with sculpting a jacket is it cant be posed like a cloth cape so I need to plan out exactly what im going to do very carefully. I also need to keep the balance of the figure in mind or it wont be able to stand correctly.
To plan out the cloak I drill little holes into the upper jacket and attach beading wire. These will also act as the inner support structure for the jacket.
4: The material im using for the jacket is called Procreate. Its a semi flexible more plastic like two part epoxy. Its strong enough to mostly hold its own weight with the help of the support structure and its much less likely to break.
So first I roll out a piece of Procreate in the rough shape I need.
1: I wrapped the legs and torso in plastic wrap so it wouldn’t accidently stick to those parts. I then place and stretch the procreate to follow my supports the best I can. I apply pressure to all the edges to make sure the support structure is embedded in the Procreate. You can already start to see folds forming at the top which is exactly what I want. The nicest part of the procreate is its very easy to shape and it will separate from itself if you dont squeeze it together to much.
I then cut off excess material from the bottom so I get a nice clean edge.
2: Then I use the the supports to push and pull the jacket into the shape I want letting the natural folds start to appear then accentuating them. I didnt worry to much about marks on the surface as I knew I was going to have to do a bunch of sanding to smooth things out. I just wanted to get the shape and flow down.
3: The right and left side of the jacket. I actually did the right side first but forgot to take pictures because I got a little wrapped up in trying to figure out how to do it ha! I also did a bit of sanding on the right side to just to make sure that would work too.
4: And the middle piece. I actually ended up adding two more supports for each edge of the split in the cloak. I really liked how the lower part of this looked but the top part was a little messed up. I ended up using this with the plan that I would sculpt over it.
I did a very rough sanding here too.
1: Here is the little patch sculpted and I did a bit of blending on the join area. Bit more sanding too.
2: This is the front. I did a bit of sanding to the flatten the supports and added some aves to fill in some gaps. After a ton more sanding the jacket is done.
3: Next up I started working on the upper part of the jacket. I fixed the collar and ended up totally re sculpting the right collar so it would match the left one perfectly.
I also, like I mentioned earlier, I added more sculpting to the bust to make the inner jacket seem thicker. Then I sculpted on the round yellow pin on the inner jacket.
4: Next I added some detail to the collar and prepared some supports for the little strap things.
1: Sculpted the straps with Procreate in the hopes they wouldn’t break off but I did end up breaking the tip of two of these off and had to glue them back on. If I did this again I would have made a little loop in the support structure so it would go all the way around.
Looks good though! Next up is the jacket arms.
2: I reattach the arms and sculpt the base of the jacket. I wanted to get the 90’s padded shoulder look and I was willing to give up a bit of range of motion to get it but I didnt want to make it so the arms couldn’t be raised. It took some massaging and then some sanding later on but I managed to get almost 90 degree up and down and it can rotates 360 degrees around.
The rolled lower sleeves are then sculpted with room for the straps im about to add.
3: The straps are added in the same method as the wrist straps.
4: Side view and thats it for the body. Time for the head and the hardest part of this whole project!
1: Heres the base head, the Jubilee build a figure head. I really really hate the facially expression on this face. Jubilee always has the best expressions and I really wanted something fun. I decided I would actually try to resculpt a face for the first time. I sort of had to if I wanted a more jubilee esk expression. I wasnt sure if I could do it but I wanted to try.
2: So I did a bit of clean up. I dialed back the crazy spikes on the hair, removed some of the stray hair and trimmed the back a bit.
I also dremeled out the mouth and embedded a magnet for the bubble gum. I must have forgot to take a picture so I just drew in the general area.
3: So heres the new face. I wanted a cheeky sort of mona lisa smile thing so I added a bit of cheek and lowered one of the eye brows. I also added some bulk to the jaw bone as I didnt like how pointy the face was.
Room to improve for sure but that mouth was the hardest thing iv ever sculpted. I think this was attempt 4 or 5 along with a bunch of regular clay practicing. I really wish I had taken pictures of all the attempts because the first one was really really really bad haha.
4: Next up is the earrings. These were pretty easy because I cheated ha. This is how I did them. I rolled a cylinder of Procreate, let it dry, drilled into it, cut off two pieces then sanded them down.
1: I then added the little rectangle and sanded it down. Earrings done!
2: I glued on the earrings then sculpted on the square visor. I should have totally removed the old visor before I sculpted the new one as it got in the way and I had to sand it down a ton to get my visor flat.
3: Next I wanted to add some strands of hair coming over the visor. I did this with Procreate. I basically take some procreate and press it flat to the thickness I want. I then take my exacto and slice a piece off as shown. Then I roll it out a bit and the apply it to the area. You can do clumps of hair this way to in different thickness
4: And the finished head! All thats left is the bubble gum accessories now.
1: Pretty easy accessory! I just rolled a ball of aves, let it dry, drilled a hole then added the rare earth magnet.
2: Finished Bubble. I added the little cap then pressed it into the lips while it was wet so I knew it would be seated properly.
I reassembled the figure before painting to just check to make sure everything looks good and to make any last sculpting changes! Everything’s looking great and shes super fun to pose so its time to paint.
The figure is dissembled again then washed with a soapy water to get the ready for priming.
First step is to use Primer to give something for the paint to stick to. I use Badgers Stynylrez primers for all of my priming. I used the zenithal method to help with shading.
For people not familiar with zenithal priming:
Prime the entire model black. Then from the top spray in a 90 degree cone using grey then from the top again spray in a 45 degree cone using white.
It adds a ton of natural shading very easily.
Some bad news, I mistakenly deleted some of my base colour layer progress photos so I just have this photo which is the final base colour. Please check out the Cyclops tutorial for photos showing what I did here but im doing basically the exact same thing here.
I use my airbrush and paint one colour at a time while using silly putty to mask off the areas I dont want to paint. I did that for the Blue, yellow, pink and skin colours.
I then went in and cleaned up the paint application with a brush and used a brush to paint the little details like the belt and gold jacket button.
I partially assembled the figure in areas that were the same colour that touched. I had some issues with the cyclops custom I did with paint applications being slightly different so I wanted to avoid that.
I then did a bit of highlighting on the figure with a brush. You can see the highlighting I did on the yellow really well on the top of the folds on the arms and I painted the rolled jeans the same colour as the jean highlight on the wrinkles. The pink got a light pink highlight along the jacket edges and on the stomach area.
I hit the yellow areas with an orange wash and I hit the blue areas with a dark blue wash.
Face is up next.
1: This is the first time iv painted a womens face so it was a real learning experience! This was my third try painting this face, room to improve but im pretty happy with it. Shout out to my girlfriend for helping me understand the basics of applying makeup ha! First I used a darker fleshtone to shade the cheek bone, under the brow, inside the ears and in the mouth.
2: Next I used a lighter fleshtone to highlight under the eyes, nose, chin and forehead. I then used the same dark fleshtone to continue darkening under the eyes, nose and lips.
3: I use a very very light layer of pink on the lips and eye lids for a makeup look and shade the edges of the face with a light application of the darktone. Lastly I detail the eyebrows and eyeliner with a dark brown. Finally the eyes are painted off white in preparation for the final step.
4: Next I paint the eyes. This is the method I use for painting eyes and it really works well. I did another light layer of pink for makeup and defined the lips with some highlights. Now its time to paint the rest of the head.
And the finished head! The earrings are painted the same yellow as the rest of the figure. The hair is painted black with a blue highlight. The shades are painted pink and I added the sort of “plasma” effect I kept seeing jim lee do for here shades in the comics, they were almsot never a smooth gradient.
All the finished pieces together before assembly. They are given a gloss varnish coat that will dry hard to help protect the paint. Once the gloss layer dries I spray on a Satin varnish for the final look.
The figure is reassembled and I drill a hole into the back so I can use a posing flight stand if I want in the future.
Final figure and accessories!
Im super happy with how this figure turned out. Shes not my most pose-able figure due to some of the limitation with the Hasbro female figures but the poses she can do all make great silhouettes and look amazing.
Thanks for checking out Action Figure Toronto! Let me know what you think and if you have any questions feel free to ask. I dont keep secrets!