Doctor Octopus Complete Tutorial

When I first started planning this project I didnt really know what version of Doc Ock I wanted to do. I knew I wanted to do a classic-ish Doc but couldn’t decide on a specific version.

I really really like different parts of a whole bunch of different versions of the character so I ended up deciding to make a Doc Ock that combined some of my favourite elements.

Thanks for checking out Action Figure Toronto and reading my tutorial, let me know what you think and if you have any questions feel free to ask. I don’t keep secrets!

Check out the final figure here!


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For this figure I used the Series 8 Marvel Legends Doc Ock, boots and hand from the three pack Nick Fury, gauntlets from Red Guardian,fist from Iron Fist, and some USB lights for the tentacles.

Sometimes I forget to mention things so, please let me know if you have any questions as I dont keep things secret and enjoy sharing the things I learn.

So here we go!


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Arms first!

1: First I broke down both arms to prep the joints to avoid paint rub. I basically sand away enough material at each joint to make them no longer rub. For whatever reason I forgot to take photos of the arm reassembled but its not to important.

2: These are gauntlets from the civil war Red Guardian. I cut them off the Red Guardians arms and got them ready to prep them to fit my figure.

3: I first shaved a ton of the top of the gauntlets to make them scale properly to my much smaller Doc Ock figure. I then sanded away any mold lines or other imperfections.

4: These are the hands I used. The fist is from Iron Fist and the open hand is the Nick Fury.


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1: I cleaned up the mold lines on the hands then shaved down the joints to avoid paint rub. I then cut off the bits that go into the arm. It makes them easier to paint and helps if I ended up wanting to make hands that can be swapped.

2: The arms are assembled and the joint holes are sculpted over. For all my sculpting on this project I am using Aves Epoxy Sculpt. I actually ended up taking even more off the top of the gauntlets because the wrists were to long but didnt take a picture of that.

3: These are the boots im using from the three pack Nick Fury figure. They are actually one piece connected to the lower legs so I have to cut them off. These boots dont have an ankle rocker but I didnt think that was super important for this figure as most of the time he will be supported by his tentacles.

4: The boots are cut off and then dissembled for paint prep.


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1:I sanded the area that was rubbing then used my dremel to carve in holes that the legs will pop into. This isnt terribly hard to do you just need to be patient not to make the holes to big. If they get to big you can just put a drop of glue in it then let it harden.

2: Dissembled the legs then sanded the joints just like the arms.

3: The finished legs. The peg holes on the legs are sculpted over and the boots pop right in and arnt loose at all.

4: Next up is the torso. The waist on this figure is super weird and I think its awful. So I decided to glue it into place and sculpt over it with the tentacle harness. I will then make a new waist swivel just above the tentacle harness.


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1: First step is to sand down all the ball joints and the sockets to prevent as much paint rub as possible. I increased the length of the neck peg slighlty because I didnt like how low the head was siting on the neck. Plus it greater improve range of motion. I also shaved down the neck joint for rub as well. I then glued the waist in place.

2: With the waist glued I dremeled off the belt and got ready to drill the holes for the tentacles.

3: I wasnt sure the best way to approach this part but I figured it was easier to figure out the hole placement at this stage before I started doing sculpting. I dont plan to add the actual tentacles in until its all sculpted and done.

I decided to position my tentacles on the sides just like first appearance doc ock. I sort of knew this was going to get in the way of the arms a bit but I was ok with that as I always liked them on the side more than the back.

4: Then I did the sculpt of the basic shape of the harness. I wanted to keep it very simple and just have the four dials like the first appearance doc. I thought about this a lot and if I wanted to do something with more bits but the Doc art I liked the most always had a simple harness.


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1: Now that I had the harness done I separated the upper and lower torso so I can add the new waist swivel later on.

2: I sculpted the dial for the harness then made a few casts.

3: I then used my dremel to make space for the dials then glued them on. Getting them spaced evenly was a huge pain but they ended up being pretty good. I then filled any gaps and the sanded everything smooth.

4: I then sculpted the raised mantle.


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1: Heres what the magnet waist looks like. I basically just filled the area with epoxy sculpt then put the magnet in the center while its still wet then pull the magnet out. When its dry I drop the magnet back in the hole with a bunch of glue. Then I sand the area flat and smooth. These are pretty strong rare earth magnets that I got from a hardware store and can support the weight of the whole figure. This is the first time iv done a waist like this and it worked out very well and I would 100% do it again.

Its also makes painting and working on the figure easier.

2: Next up is the claws on the ends of the tentacles. At first I planned on making the claws be able to open and close but I changed my mind as I wasnt sure when I would really ever want them closed and it was going to be a ton of work.

This is the sculpt I did for the claw. I knew I would need a bunch of them so im going to take a cast of this.

3: Claw finger casts done! I casted a whole bunch of these and tried out some of my cast colours but only ended up using three.

4: Next is the sculpt I did for the center of the claw. You cant really see the detail in this picture but you will see it better when I cast this part. The white part is a hollow plasticard tube that has a inner diameter slightly smaller than the usb cables im using for the tentacles.


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1: Casts of the center of the claw. There are some problems with the casts, im still trying to get better at casting but they look pretty good cleaned up.

2: The first complete claw. After completing this claw I realized that making three other claws look exactly the same wasnt going to happen so I ended up just doing a cast of the complete claw.

3: My finished claw ends with toothpick ends for when I start painting!

4: TENTACLE TIME. It took me forever to figure out how to do these tentacles. Iv seen a whole bunch of different customs that attempted to use the soft plastic ones that came with the figure but I didnt really like how any of them looked. They were to short, to thick and couldn’t support much weight. I also knew having to paint them with a metal finish that was pose able and wouldn’t crack would be a pain.

I ended up using USB lights I got off ebay. These are slightly more pose able than the rubber ones, already silver, good scale (Maybe a touch thin) and they can hold a ton of weight without moving. They are actually strong enough that one cable can hold the weight of the full figure.


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1: So I pulled the ends off the cables pretty easily then slide some of the plasticard tube onto the cables.

2: I then slide the cables into the harness will a ton of glue then fit the plasticard tubes to fit the harness. I filled in some gaps then sanded everything smooth.

3: Frigen. Sweet. I was super super excited about how well these worked out. The arm span end to end is two feet and they are super fun to pose.

4: Heads up next! I took the glasses off as im going to sculpt my own.


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1: I dremeled off the hair and did some sanding to smooth the mold lines and other imperfections.

2: Glasses sculpt! I ended up doing something similar to the animated series Doc Ock goggles. I love those.

3: Hair sculpt. I wanted to keep it a little nerdy still but make it a little more realistic.

4: Back side.


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Front and back of the dry fitting. I use to paint the figure like this but im going to disassemble it this time as I think it will be easier to paint that way. The other reason I always do a dry fitting is just to see how everything looks together. I noticed that the wrist gauntlets were way to long so I shaved them down a lot then re attached them. You can see the difference in the next photos.


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Heres everything disassembled ready to paint. Cleaned everything with some soapy water and taped off the metal tentacles. Primer time!


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Everything primed! I use Badgers Stynylrez primers for all of my priming. I used the zenithal method to help with shading.

For people not familiar with zenithal priming:

Prime the entire model black. Then from the top spray in a 90 degree cone using grey then from the top again spray in a 45 degree cone using white.

It adds a ton of natural shading very easily.


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The primeing for the harness is a bit different as I plan on using Chrome Alclad to do the metal finish. I primed the area black then used a gloss varnish coat and the harness is ready for painting.


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This is the base colours for the main body. I masked off the areas for each colour then did several light coats using an airbrush. This is just green and orange over the zenithal prime and you can see how much shading we already have.


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Bam! Shiny Harness! Alclad is crazy good and its the only thing I use for metal finishes. The only problems is you have to make sure the area you are spraying it on is perfectly perfectly smooth because the alclad will show even the smallest imperfections. I have a few little lines in the Harness from the sculpting stage that I didnt even see.


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Heres the final paintjob. I cleaned up any issues from the base coat then hit everything with a wash, green gets a dark brown almost black and orange gets a dark brown with a hit of orange. Lastly I used a yellow paint and airbrushed some highlights onto all the raised areas. This brings a ton of life to the figure and helps unify everything. Lastly I painted a few little details like the boot buckles then painted the head.


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The head is a pretty simple paint job. For the skin I use a basecoat of flesh tone then do a brown wash then use my airbrush with a lighter flesh tone from the top to hit the upper details. The hair is similar I do a brown basecoat then a dark brown wash then I dry brush some red brown over top.

For the glasses I wanted them to be black but still tie in the blue you see in a lot of Doc Ock art. I decided the best way would be to make the glare/reflection blue.

This was all done by hand starting with the black base coat then I used very very thin layers of white paint to do the gradient then I used very very thin layers of blue over the white. Im super happy with how this head turned out and love how the glasses look on the figure.

Finally everything is hit with a gloss varnish to protect the paint.


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All done! Everything is assembled and the claws are glued onto the tentacles.

Everything but the harness and the glasses are hit with a matte varnish.

This was a super fun project to do and one iv wanted to do forever. The tentacles are seriously amazing to pose and you can do a lot of crazy things with them

LIKE…..


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Balance him on one tentacle. I probably wouldn’t leave him like that but one tentacle can support the weight of the whole figure until something blows him over ha.

Thanks for checking out Action Figure Toronto, let me know what you think and if you have any questions feel free to ask. I dont keep secrets!

Thanks!

 

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  • Show Comments

  • danny

    Amazing amazing job! I’m going to use your tutorial to do a doc ock conversion with the movie 13″ doc ock as a base. you are amazingly skilled and talented….I am a follower now. I collect statues, but they are getting way to expensive and I used to customize, but not at this level. Just starting to use an airbrush. I’m dying to make my own 1/5 scale sin 6. again, blew me away with this doc ock project. Can you recommend were I can get slightly bigger usb lights for a bigger scale. thanks.

    • WilliamTink

      Thanks! Unfortunetly I dont really know off hand but try searching for gooseneck tubing in whatever diameter you want. Thats the actual name for the bendable metal tubing used on the USB lights.

  • Francisco Fernandez

    This is simply incredible. Well done. That paint finish looks awesome.

  • Carlos Santos Falen

    WoW! Is awesome dude!
    I´m from Peru and i want one of these. But i´m really bad with the customs.
    I hope to make a good Doc Ock. Regards!

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